[First note. The following was written shortly after I returned from my first trip to Jamaica to observe Sunsplash #12 in 1989. As you read my ramblings please keep in mind that it was written 12 years ago. Much of what was true then is now history: Sunsplash, the Bob Marley Performing Arts Center in Montego Bay, certainly the rate of exchange of Jamaican and American dollars. Also, my impressions, by definition, are largely subjective and were often based on my ignorance and/or naivete. Nevertheless, I enjoyed reading it today almost as much as I treasured the original experience. This article was first published in The Beat magazine] Jamaica: No Problem (except the first time) If you are thinking of heading to Jamaica for Sunsplash 13, set for mid-August '90, now is the time to start planning. The following tidbits to help ease your adventure are garnered from mistakes I made and lessons I learned during my first visit to the land of ganja, wood and water. In other words, if only I had known... Begin locking in your airfare as soon as 1) the exact dates of 'Splash are announced and 2) the airlines set their prices. Waiting too long could easily cost and extra hundred dollars or so as airfares seem to increase as the date nears. Also, hotel and car rental reservations are best made as early as possible. One suggested hotel is the Seawind. Rates are reportedly reasonable and the hotel is within walking distance of the Marley Performance Center. Much cheaper but not as convenient is Damali Beach. For US$10 per night accommodations are your tent and your food and an interesting group of camping 'Splashers. Taxi fares from Damali Beach to Sunsplash range from JA$30-40 (or US$6-8) one way. During Sunsplash 12 (1989) the monetary exchange rate was about five Jamaican dollars to one US dollar. When buying from or street vendors or taking a taxi be sure to clearly understand whether the price is in Jamaican or American dollars. This will help ease confusion and possibly save you from costly surprises. Be prepared to be solicited (and sometimes hassled) by friendly street vendors (and hustlers). Many Jamaicans would consider themselves well-off if they were as rich as poverty-level Americans. And, obviously, if you can afford to be in Jamaica for Sunsplash you are "a rich American" no matter how much you scrimped and saved to be there. I found that a firm, friendly and polite "NO" usually sufficed to stop the hustle. Although many Jamaicans will appear to be hitchhiking, they are actually signaling to vehicle drivers that they are willing to pay for a ride if the driver is willing to "carry" them a ways. An interesting, and much cheaper alternative to hitchhiking or hiring taxis, are the public busses. They run on a strict schedule of "every once in a while" and despite appearances, seem to usually reach their destination. Herb is illegal in Jamaica so discreteness is suggested. Lengthy prison sentences are the rule and high fines are the exception for anyone convicted of attempting to take ganja IN or OUT of Jamaica. Herb prices vary and it pays to know your dealer and to know your herb. Matches and lighters seem to be in short supply and having a few extra to share is a nice and appreciated gesture. Also, Jamaicans are not prone to share (or pass) a spliff--not out of rudeness but custom. If your are a vegetarian you can easily meet your dietary needs. However if your diet is ital then you may have to search a bit. I found searching fun and getting there half the pleasure. The only "Ital Shop" (as they are called) I found in Montego Bay were a goodly walk into the ghetto and would have been impossible to find without a guide. I did have a bit of trouble with the drinking water but I understand spring water is available. My friends report that Jamaican Red Stripe beer is an excelland substitute for water. Sunsplash '89 ticket prices ranged from $JA40 (for Monday and Tuesday) to JA$60 for the final nights. Bracelets, entitling the wearing to "in and out" privileges and admission to a backstage area cost JA$400 (US$80) and were good for all six nights. There is very seldom a reason to go "in and out" and the "backstage" area is more like a stage door entrance than a true backstage. But the bracelets do save the hassle of long ticket lines and longer entrance lines. If, as a novice Splasher, your are eager to "see it all" prepare yourself for six days and nights on very little sleep during the warmest part of the day. Typically, each night will start about 9 PM and may (very often) go until 8-10AM the following morning. Exceptions are Monday (Sound System night with no live acts) and Tuesday (Beach Party night) which both begin and end at earlier times. I suggest taking a large piece of expendable plastic. This is used to both "stake out" your area [at Sunsplash] and provide a relatively clean ground cover for your "Reggae beds" which are large pieces of cardboard sold by ubiquitous vendors. I was also glad to have my camping sleeping pad along for an extra measure of comfort. Also, it is permissible to pitch a small tent for each night's concert which seems like a very practical yet very pretentiously American idea. Be prepared for soldiers and police at the shows. Police to what police usually do and soldiers walk around wearing helmets and carrying machine guns. With up to 60,000 people liable to be there on Thursday (Dancehall Night) the police and soldiers are probably welcome peace keepers-just in case. Jamaicans are basically a friendly people. They do seem to argue a bit and a vocal tiff between two often expands into a rapid give and take between everyone within earshot. However, most of the banter, though loud, is often lighthearted. Jamaicans also have unlimited patience as evidenced by seemingly endless lines in banks and lengthy waits for a bus--giving a realistic appreciation to the concept of "soon come." They also seem to have a different concept of distance than that of Americans. Being told that someplace is "just a little way" may start one on a very long walk. Lastly, remembering that you are the foreigner and are a guest in Jamaica will serve you in good stead. Maintaining such an attitude will enhance your first experience of Sunsplash and of Jamaica. In addition to returning home with smiles and happy memories you will truly understand what seems to be the Jamaican national motto: "No problem mon, you're in Jamaica." Hope to see you there. [Last note. I thoroughly enjoyed keying this article into my computer. Each paragraph was based on an experience and are stories yet to be told or imagined. There is one most egregious error. I did have a two day bout of the runs but I now know that my discomfort was not the fault of the water. In my many trips back to Jamaica I've never had a problem with the water nor have I heard of anyone who has. Otherwise, though dated, what is written above harbors some kernels worth harvesting still.] Papa Pilgrim, RAW #1, Founder, Reggae Ambassadors Worldwide. 12/4/2001